Only in Yorkshireland

A couple of weeks ago I went down to Yorkshireland, but not the old hometown, first I spent a few days by the seaside, well, mainly in the Scarborough Beer and Cider Festival. Twas a rather jolly occasion, ciders, perries and the occasional beer. If you ever happen upon a Camra beer festival I would highly recommend going in, that is, if you would like the opportunity to try a wide range of beer styles (and real ciders too).

Had a quick stop in Robin Hoods Bay on the way, love it there!

At one time I would have stuck with apples and pears, but these days I like to explore some of the hoppy ales. There’s always a list with a few tasting notes to help folk navigate through the choices on offer; well, there is for the beers, ciders just have numbers between 1 and 7 to denote sweet to dry, but cider bar volunteers are usually very good with extra details to help cider novices (they will have sampled them all!) While the cider bar selection was broad and fine, nothing really stood out for me, unlike As Within, So Without a pale ale from The Meanwood Brewery in Leeds, wowzah! Grapefruity and biscuity, almost chewy, I’d definitely have some of that again!

Scarborough – it has it’s ups and downs

Then, I headed inland to deepest, dampest Yorkshire, actually apart from the day I travelled across, it wasn’t too damp. A lack of muddiness inspired me to head to Mytholmroyd to complete the Cragg Vale Coiners’ Walk, the plan was to start at the end, get up to where I copped out last time, then head to the road back down into the town. Yeah, no, that map, it’s a tad vague when you’re following it, nevermind doing the route in reverse (last attempted in 2023, you can read about it in A walk through the Vale). As last time, I didn’t quite follow the route but I was roughly in the right area; I think I found Scout Rock, well, there was a gate next to it and a bit further along was the beacon. At that point I had run out of time and had to head back to my car. Hopefully one day I’ll get to do the whole thing in one go!

That is, indeed, a beacon. Outstanding panoramic views up there

I know just where to get some great snacks for that day. Now, I’m probably wrong but I’m sure the butcher called it a naked egg, yeah, surely that’s just an egg? This was a scotch egg but instead of the breaded outer layer it’s wrapped in bacon, bloody tasty bacon – a breakfast egg? Well, there’s egg, bacon and sausage (meat), by gum, it’s substantial. In the same place I spotted a sign saying Yorkshire Scoundrels, obviously I had to enquire about them; a bit like a cross between a cake and a scone (ahem, pronounced like cone with an s in front, rhymes with stone) and there’s dried fruit in it, the man said, okay, one please (I don’t actually like scones but I was feeling daring). Yummy! Apart from the three nuts, but they were whole and very visible so easy to take out. I feel like I’ll need to find some old-fashioned cloudy lemonade to wash it all down!

Wickedly tasty (sorry, no photo of the egg)

It’s late, I must away to my bed, I shall leave you with an snippet from the letters page in last Saturday’s Times. Honestly, this is the most bizarre combination for a curry – banana and spaghetti curry. Huh? What? The letter ends “I still serve sliced bananas with curry”, sure, fine, I can go with that, but spaghetti in a curry?!? G’night.

Time to squeeze in a quick one

Eight minutes left of March, quick update from yours truly. Honestly, I would have written before, but well, you know!? I was down in Yorkshireland, first deepest eastest Yorkshire. Scarborough to be precise. After that across to deepest, darkest West Yorkshireland, where I encountered a Yorkshire Scoundrel and did a little bit more of the Coiner’s Walk. I would have done more of but that map is terribly vague!

Honestly, I will fill in the details in the morning – or will I?

A walk through the Vale

Just back from another jaunt down to deepest dampest Yorkshire, boy, was it damp! Even with temperatures into the low twenties on several days, the feeling of damp prevailed. But hey, I finally got to do the Crag Vale Coiner’s Walk, on a bright sunny day too. It was really great, even when I took an accidental detour, well, it was a tricksy bit to figure out from the description and map (somewhere around Lower Lumb, but at least I was always headed in the right direction, not lost just a tad misplaced).

Hoo Hole – ancestral home of owls??
Into Spring Wood

The walk is a circular route beginning and ending in Mytholmroyd. It’s 5¼ miles long and is quite strenuous in places, a tad muddy too – and that was after unseasonably reasonable weather, oh, and there’s farm mud to negotiate through! I employed a fleet foot approach, tread lightly, move quickly, speed yourself over the top!

The woodlands around Cragg Vale are awe-inspiring, oh, some of the trees were magnificent, I could have dawdled for hours admiring them. The moorlands above have panoramic views all around, including across to Bell House, the home “King” David Hartley; that’s it on the right hand side of the picture below.

The boardwalk pathways through the bogs on the moor attest to how dangerous the area would have been back in the Coiners time.

The Lumb Stone on Bell House Moor

It took rather longer than I expected (even without my departure from the mapped route), so I didn’t have time to stop for a drink at the Robin Hood Inn, a shame as it is a fine, old fashioned pub with well-kept ales.

I fully intend to walk it again in reverse, hopefully next summer, allowing much more time! The map (by Christopher Goddard, a local cartographer) with all it’s illustrations, instructions, information and quotes from The Gallows Pole is a delight unobtainable from reading bits off a mobile phone. Yay for paper maps I say!

After yesterday’s long journey back up to Edinburgh, I took myself up Moose Ridge this morning. Interesting goings-on up in the Park…

Those bags are impressively strong!

Good night all!

I’m on my way to an Amarillo

Crikey, it’s been a week since my last post – I’ve been busy, honest. I’ve been very busy today too, no sitting out in the sun for me, and just when I thought I was done, I discovered a new moth infestation, bastards! So I writing something short and sweet just now as I’m not sure when I’ll get time next. Short because very shortly Duke Duncan & The Hurricanes will be on at Whistlebinkies – my excuse for a drink. I’ve never seen them before but by all accounts they’re rather good, so it’s beyond time that I checked them out.

Why won’t I be posting for a while? Some long time followers may have noticed this is one of those times in a year that I head back to the old country, Yorkshireland. I’ve kind of sorted stuff to go, uke and music, chocolates from CoCo Company, the Fringe programme (two, mark-up and cut-out), sunglasses.

I’ve already watched the last episode of The Gallows Pole and by’eck its good. Loved the bit when Grace tells David he needs to rally the troops, he turns to the gathered room “Ayup!” Perfect! And there was Peaches by The Stranglers in the soundtrack, pure class. I’ll definitely try to fit in a visit to Heptonstall while I’m down. Oh, I did find my copy of the Cragg Vale Coiners Walk but maybe not this trip down, it’s going to be bloody hot! Maybe next time, let’s face it, these temperatures most likely won’t last long.

Anyhoo, must go, make my way to Amarillo, that’s a pint of, very tasty, from Stewart Brewing, of course. Toodle pip!

A Tale of Cards and Coiners

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They seek him here, they seek him there – apparently he’s on the wasteland! If only those Frenchies had had a set of Pepys’ Wild Flower Sevens they’d have known where to look! Oh, how we chortled, gathered around the dining table finally able to do battle once more. I say battle, playing card games with family could be mistaken for warfare at times.

Yes, I’ve been down in the old country as restrictions have been loosened off. They’ve clearly had a rather damp time of it, all the local reservoirs are full to overflowing (in July, wow), luckily it wasn’t too bad for my trip. The warm weather meant I was roped into mowing the meadow that my mother’s lawn had become. I left a few patches of flowers, the selfheal did look very pretty and the bees love it. I was also given the dubious task of pruning the hedge; it’s done, not particularly well, but it’s done. I’ll be sure to time my next visit down for after it’s next trim.

I joined in the long evening walks over the local hilltops, well, I followed on behind, not a clue where we were, just the odd distant memory popping up. Wandering on the tops did occasionally put us in the clouds, like here looking across to the M62…..

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…….but invariably the sun would reappear as we wound our way lower and home again.

I even learnt some local history when one evening a far hillside was pointed out as Coiner’s Country (I’d tried a knowledgeable grunt, but then had to admit to my ignorance). Coiners were folk who clipped bits off gold and silver coins to make more counterfeit coins (that’s the simplified version).

Turns out the Cragg Vale Coiners were notorious as the most organised gang in the 1700’s, so much so their leader was known as “King David” Hartley. He’d learnt his skills while working in Birmingham, then took them back home where the local weavers were in dire straits and welcomed any way to make some money. Enter William Deighton, an excise officer, sent to investigate, exit Deighton murdered by two coiners; well, he had arrested “King David” in the Old Cock Inn in Halifax, which led to the “Duke of York” aka Isaac (David’s brother) calling a meeting in the Dusty Miller (a Mytholmroyd pub), putting a price of £100 on his head. The Crown got serious and despatched one Marquis of Rockingham to deal with the problem however he saw fit (imprisonment, hanging, deportation to the African colonies, apparently).

“King David” lies in Heptonstall graveyard. He was convicted for coining and hanged in York in 1770. There’s a book The Gallows Pole by Benjamin Myers that tells the tale, fictionalised but faithfully drawn from historical accounts and documents; I’ll definitely have to get me a copy. There’s also The Cragg Vale Coiners Walk by Christopher Goddard, a must-buy before I head down again.

The Dusty Miller and The Old Cock are still going to this day, according to a quick check on Facebook. Interestingly, The Old Cock was later frequented by one Branwell Brontë. He also drank in the Union Cross in Halifax, definitely still open as I had a pint in there just last week. Sadly another pub from that time,  the Upper George (a pub I misspent plenty of time in in my younger days) hasn’t reopened yet, no doubt another haunt of Branwell’s.

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I shall leave you with another card, played by my brother announcing he had Scabious on the Moorland, well, I had to say it – “You can get an ointment for that”.

Toodle pip!